2017 Mast Shiraz

Pressed to tank, transferred to oak for mlf and 18 months’ maturation in French barriques (25% new). A vinous ode to the late, great innovative winemaker Trevor Mast, who promoted the kind of cool-climate shiraz we now so enjoy. This is all about the quality of the fruit, the light pepper and swirling spice, anise, wild raspberries, cassis. It moves with precision on the palate, elegant and supple.

The Mast Shiraz is a tribute to the late founder of Mount Langi Ghiran, Trevor Mast. The wines have changed a far bit since Trevor was at the helm but still retain their unique place in the history of Australian wine, with this particular example having a fair whack of whole bunch. It’s an opaque ruby colour before a seductive and tight core of dark fruits take over – blackberry, olive tapenade and dark chocolate with some spicy elements also coming through. It is a thoroughbred on the palate with muscular, dense dark fruits plus a sprinkling of mineral and spice, sweet oak also playing its part well. Firm and long yet immaculately balanced, it delivers both power and subtlety although needs some time to come out of its shell.

Deep and very bright red/ purple colour, youthful and fresh, which also describes the whole wine. It has a spicy aroma with some pepper and balsamic herb high notes, while the palate is intense and medium to full-bodied, the fine grained tanning lingering throughout. It's inbued with lovely freshness, which seems unrelated to acidity. Quietly powerful; a quite stunning Shiraz.

This is no shrinking violet, in any way, shape or form. The 2019 Mast Shiraz is inky and intense, and although hailing from cool-climate origins, it has a density and ripeness to it that decries that. Named after the legendary Trevor Mast (the Shiraz trophy at the Melbourne Wine Show is named the Trevor Mast Trophy), this is a full-throttle homage to the man that pioneered the Grampians winemaking area. Despite its big status, this wine is possessed of a detail and focus that many lack, with a framework of very fine, ferrous tannins in the mouth. It has Black Forest fruits, very fine texture and long, lingering flavour. There are notes of black cherries, a sprinkling of sumac, exotic spice and so much going on—do not underestimate the meatiness and minerality of this wine. It is excellent. A wine of place, which, as I've said many times before, is everything.

The 2017 Mast Shiraz leads with freshly waxed leather, black pepper and boysenberry. The fruit is from a southeast-facing block called House Block. There are aromas of pink peppercorns, red fruit, layers of pomegranate molasses, poached plum and brine. A leafy palate follows and then an unfurling, long finish. This is very fine, balanced and good. The 2017 season was moderate/generous in terms of yield, and it was a coolish year. The wine is matured in 30% new oak for 12 to 14 months, depending on how the wine is looking toward the end of its term. It's a spicy wine, really lovely. Fifty percent whole-bunch sits well within the wine. This will continue to age well—slowly and gracefully. It's gorgeous drinking right now, if you have some in the cellar... 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Named in honour of the late chief winemaker Trevor Mast and picked in his favourite vineyard, Block 4, the coolest of the estate, as well as in the Old Block, this was fermented with 50% whole berries and 50% whole bunches. The nose is shy but becomes rather meaty with some air. It also has a lactic edge and notes of wet stone. The palate is full bodied but comes with much contour and a fine but pleasantly crunchy texture. Pepperiness and acidity seem to cheer each other on, promoting juiciness that has a hint of black cherry amid all these meaty and stony notes. This is dense but not opulent, rich and smooth but without fat. Very juicy. It spent 18 months in 25% new French oak.